Guides

Your Suit Is an Investment — Treat It Like One

A premium motorcycle racing suit built from kangaroo or cowhide leather isn't just protective gear — it's a precision instrument that conforms to your body over time, stiffens in the right places, and softens where it needs to move. Proper care keeps it performing at its best and extends its service life by years.

This guide covers everything: routine cleaning, deep conditioning, storage, and what to avoid at all costs.

How Often Should You Clean Your Suit?

• After every track day: Wipe down with a damp cloth to remove sweat, dust, and grime before it sets into the leather.
• Every 3–6 months: Full clean and condition cycle, or more frequently if you ride in hot climates or sweat heavily.
• After any crash or slide: Inspect thoroughly before cleaning — check stitching, armor pockets, and abrasion zones before deciding whether the suit is still serviceable.

What You'll Need

• Soft microfibre cloths (at least two — one for cleaning, one for conditioning)
• pH-neutral leather cleaner (saddle soap works for cowhide; use a dedicated leather cleaner for kangaroo)
• Quality leather conditioner (lanolin-based or beeswax-based)
• Soft-bristle brush for seams and stitching
• Lukewarm water

Step-by-Step: Cleaning Your Racing Suit

Step 1 — Remove Armor and Liners

Before cleaning, remove all CE armor inserts and any removable inner liners. Armor can be wiped down separately with a damp cloth. Liners, if removable, can usually be hand-washed in cold water with mild detergent — check the care label.

Step 2 — Dry Brush the Exterior

Use a soft-bristle brush to loosen surface dirt, especially around seams, zippers, and panel joins. Work gently — you're dislodging debris, not scrubbing the leather.

Step 3 — Apply Leather Cleaner

Dampen a microfibre cloth with lukewarm water and apply a small amount of leather cleaner. Work in small sections using circular motions. Don't saturate the leather — you want the surface damp, not wet. Pay extra attention to the collar, cuffs, and seat area where body oils accumulate.

Step 4 — Wipe Clean and Allow to Dry

Use a clean damp cloth to remove any cleaner residue. Then allow the suit to air dry completely at room temperature — never use a hairdryer, radiator, or direct sunlight. Heat causes leather to dry out, crack, and lose its structural integrity.

Step 5 — Condition the Leather

Once fully dry, apply a thin, even layer of leather conditioner using a clean microfibre cloth. Work it into the leather using circular motions, covering the entire exterior surface. Allow it to absorb for 15–20 minutes, then buff off any excess with a dry cloth.

Conditioning replenishes the natural oils that keep leather supple, prevents cracking, and maintains the material's abrasion resistance — which is critical for a suit that may one day need to protect you in a slide.

Kangaroo vs Cowhide: Does Care Differ?

The cleaning process is largely the same, but there are a few nuances worth knowing.

Kangaroo Leather

Kangaroo leather is denser and more tightly grained than cowhide, which makes it naturally more resistant to moisture penetration. However, it can dry out faster in arid conditions. Use a conditioner specifically formulated for fine-grain leathers and apply it more frequently if you ride in dry climates. Avoid heavy wax-based products that can clog the grain.

Cowhide Leather

Cowhide is more forgiving and responds well to a wider range of conditioners, including lanolin and beeswax formulas. It's slightly more porous than kangaroo, so it benefits from conditioning after every deep clean. Saddle soap is a reliable, time-tested cleaner for cowhide.

Not sure which leather is right for your next suit? Read our full breakdown: Kangaroo Leather vs Cowhide Leather.

What to Avoid

• Machine washing — the agitation and heat will destroy the leather's structure and void any warranty.
• Silicone-based products — they create a surface film that prevents the leather from breathing and can degrade stitching over time.
• Petroleum-based solvents — these strip natural oils and cause irreversible drying and cracking.
• Direct heat drying — always air dry at room temperature, away from radiators, vents, and sunlight.
• Over-conditioning — too much conditioner can soften the leather excessively, reducing its abrasion resistance. A thin coat every few months is sufficient.

Zipper and Hardware Care

Zippers are a common failure point on racing suits. Keep them running smoothly by applying a small amount of zipper lubricant (beeswax or a dedicated zipper wax) to the teeth every few months. Avoid silicone sprays near leather panels. Check all zipper pulls and sliders for wear — a failed zipper at speed can compromise the suit's structural integrity in a crash.

Storage: How to Keep Your Suit in Shape

• Hang the suit on a wide, padded hanger — never fold it for long-term storage, as creases can become permanent.
• Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and UV exposure, which degrades leather over time.
• Use a breathable garment bag — not a plastic cover, which traps moisture and promotes mildew.
• Store armor inserts separately to prevent pressure points forming in the leather.
• If storing for a full off-season, condition the suit before putting it away and again when you take it out.

When to Retire a Suit

Even with perfect care, a racing suit has a finite service life. Inspect yours regularly for:

• Cracked or delaminating leather panels
• Broken or fraying stitching, especially at high-stress seams
• Damaged or non-functional armor pockets
• Zippers that no longer close fully
• Any suit that has been involved in a significant crash — even if damage isn't visible, the leather's abrasion resistance may be compromised

When it's time for a new suit, explore our full range of leather racing suits — built to perform from the first lap and last for years with proper care.