Guides

Key takeaways

• The ankle has little natural padding and is easily twisted or crushed. That is why a boot's ankle structure matters more than its height or looks.
• Motorcycle boots are certified to EN 13634. The label shows a series of numbers rather than a single score.
• A race boot is stiffer and harder to walk in than a touring boot. The restriction is deliberate.
• Fit is a safety feature: a boot that lets your heel lift can come off, or let your foot move inside it, in a slide.
• Wide feet and big calves are common problems. Made-to-order boots can solve both.

Why wear motorcycle boots at all?

Your feet and ankles sit close to the ground, the footpeg and the bike's hot or sharp parts. In a fall they are the part most likely to be trapped, crushed or twisted. An ordinary shoe or work boot has none of the structure needed to resist this. A motorcycle boot adds reinforced zones at the ankle, heel, toe and shin, and an abrasion-resistant upper that stays intact when it slides along tarmac.

Boots also help with control. A firm sole and a shift pad let you feel the pegs and change gear without the lever wearing through the leather.

Race boots, touring boots and riding shoes: what is the difference?

Riding shoes are better than sneakers, but a short boot offers less ankle and shin coverage than a tall one. If you ride a sportbike on a circuit, a tall race boot is the usual choice.

How the EN 13634 rating works

Motorcycle boots and shoes sold in Europe and the UK are certified to EN 13634:2017. The standard tests four properties: the height of the upper, impact abrasion resistance, impact cut resistance and transverse rigidity (resistance to the boot being crushed from the side). Each is graded at one of two performance levels, with Level 2 the higher.

The label shows a short string of numbers for these properties, so a boot can score differently across tests. For example, it may reach Level 2 for abrasion and cut but Level 1 for rigidity. Read the label rather than relying on a single "CE approved" claim. SATRA, a testing body, gives a plain overview in its EN 13634:2017 summary.

Two cautions. The standard does not test ankle protection against twisting, so a boot can pass and still have a flexible ankle. And some manufacturers leave out the height digit, so check the boot itself as well as the label.

What to look for in a race boot

1. Ankle protection

Look for rigid internal or external ankle cups on both sides of the joint. This is what limits the sideways rotation behind most riding foot injuries, and it is why race boots feel stiff.

2. Reinforced heel and toe

A reinforced heel counter and toe box resist crushing if the bike lands on your foot. A bolt-on toe slider takes the wear when the boot touches down in a corner, and it should be replaceable.

3. Shift pad

An extra layer over the instep stops the gear lever wearing a hole in the leather. Without one, an ordinary boot can wear through within a season of regular riding.

4. A closure that stays shut

A side zip with a secure strap or hook-and-loop closure is harder to pull open in a slide than laces. Laces can also catch on a footpeg.

5. Material

Full-grain leather resists abrasion well. Bonded or PU-coated material tends to tear rather than abrade. On leather designs, patchwork colour is cut from coloured hide, so it does not crack or peel the way printed graphics can.

6. Ventilation

Vents are useful in heat, but they should sit away from impact zones so they do not weaken the ankle structure.

7. Sole

A flat, hard-wearing sole grips pegs and paddock, but it is not meant for long walks.

How should motorcycle boots fit?

Use this checklist, wearing the socks you ride in:

1. Snug, not painful. Your foot should not slide forward or sideways, and your toes should not be pressed hard against the front.
2. No heel lift. Walk around and flex your foot. If the heel rises noticeably, the boot is too big or the wrong shape.
3. Zip and closure without strain. If you must force the zip, check the calf and instep measurements.
4. Enough room to move the toes. You need to wriggle them a little, because a crushed foot loses feel for the gear lever.
5. Try them on the bike. Check you can reach the lever and brake pedal and that the ankle does not press painfully in your riding position.

New leather boots feel stiff and loosen slightly after the first few rides, so they should feel firm rather than roomy at the start.

Wide feet and big calves

These are the two most common problems with stock race boots. A high instep or a wide forefoot can make a standard boot unusable, and a muscular calf can stop the zip closing. The best fix is a boot made to your own measurements. Send a foot length in centimetres, a width and an instep measurement, plus your calf circumference, rather than relying on a shoe size. Our size guide explains how to take them.

Boots and your suit

A one piece leather suit is cut so the leg closes over the top of a tall race boot and seals the ankle. Wearing the boot over the suit leg leaves the join exposed and can catch on the peg. If you are choosing a suit as well, read our guide to 1 piece vs 2 piece suits, and make sure your boots, gloves and suit have compatible closures.

How to care for racing boots

• Wipe the exterior with a soft, slightly damp cloth after riding.
• Use a leather conditioner when the hide feels dry.
• Never machine wash, tumble dry or bleach them.
• Dry them naturally, away from direct sunlight and artificial heat, because heat makes leather brittle.
• Replace the toe slider before it wears down to the boot leather.
• Stuff them with paper after a wet ride and let them dry slowly.

When should you replace your boots?

• After a significant crash. Internal ankle structure can crack out of sight.
• When the ankle cups feel soft or the sole has separated.
• When the leather is cracked, or the zip or closure no longer holds.
• When the boot no longer fits, because feet can change over time.

Bleed Racing Gears boots

Our racing boots are made to order in standard and custom sizes, with full-grain leather uppers, rigid ankle cups, a replaceable toe slider and a shift pad. They can be produced in a matching colourway to your suit, including team designs such as the Fabio Quartararo French GP boots.

Frequently asked questions

Are motorcycle boots worth it?

Yes. The ankle and foot are easy to injure and have little natural protection. A certified boot reduces the risk of crushing and twisting injuries and keeps the foot intact in a slide.

Can I wear racing boots on the road?

Yes, though they are stiffer and harder to walk in than a touring boot. Many riders keep race boots for track and sport riding and use something shorter for commuting.

Do racing boots go inside or outside the suit?

Inside. The suit leg is cut to close over the top of a tall race boot.

How should motorcycle race boots fit?

Snug with no heel lift, no pressure points, and enough room to move your toes. Test them in your riding socks.

Are racing boots waterproof?

Not usually. Leather race boots are built for grip, protection and feel, not wet-weather sealing. For long rain rides, a touring boot with a waterproof membrane is better.

Are riding shoes as safe as boots?

A rated riding shoe is much better than a sneaker, but it covers less of the ankle and shin than a tall boot. Choose by how and where you ride.

Do racing boots stretch?

Leather softens and moulds to your foot over the first few rides, but it will not become much wider. If a boot is too narrow or too short, choose another size or a made-to-measure pair.

Sources

• SATRA: EN 13634:2017 motorcycle protective footwear
• iTeh Standards: EN 13634:2017 catalogue entry